“There’s more to meals than the pleasures of the table, the flavors of the ingredients and the skills of the cooks. They can help us to understand individuals and communities, cultures and societies.”
—Fabio Paraseocli from Al Dente, A History of Food in Italy
La cucina Italiana—just the words are enough to evoke images of freshly sliced buffalo mozzarella drizzled with balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil, delicate cuts of Parma and Prosciutto with a bottle of Chianti Classico decadently accompanying some hearty pastas and pizzas, preferably just popping out of the brick oven.
Italian cuisine has had a lengthy love affair with global diners. Filipinos in particular have made it one of our steadfast and reliable choices for eating out, whether it veers towards delivery of pizzas from Shakeys, a quick lunch at Cibo’s or Va Bene, hidden enclaves like Bellini’s and Caruso, to more leisurely meals at Tosca or Paparazzi. Even our sweet fixes of gelatos are Italian in origin.
I remember one of the first issues I worked on as editor-in-chief for F&B World that focused on Italian cuisine. It was an experience for me, as I discovered more about the Filipino’s passion for Italian dishes have definitely gone beyond cravings for pizza and pasta. What unfolded was a rich tapestry of Italian and Filipino chefs and restaurateurs, expats and food lovers who have managed to create an exciting culinary landscape for everyone to enjoy. And it was not confined to the metro, as we dined at local gems like La Tegola in Cebu and Trattoria Uma (now Café Uma) in Bacolod.
When we feast on Italian cuisine, we don’t just partake of its glory and diversity, but also get an inkling about the underlying traditions that bring this cuisine to life. Paraseocli mentions in his book that “It has become apparent how different populations, diverse habits and a dazzling variety of products and dishes have interacted to shape local identities, connecting what people eat with specific places but also with economic structures and power relationships. Traditions and authenticity constitute an important part of the lived experience for many people.”
FESTA ITALIANA
I had the chance to talk to Marco Polo Hong Kong’s chef de cuisine for Cucina, Chef Andrea Delzanno as he took over the kitchen reigns during Marco Polo Ortigas’ Festa Italiana. Hailing from Piedmont, Italy, Chef Andrea displayed an affinity for seasonal ingredients, from white asparagus to black truffles which he showcases in his a la carte menu at Cucina Hong Kong in limited seasonal menus.
“Italian cuisine is very healthy, light, and approachable. It’s something you can have every day since it is healthy,” he commented. His trademark formula for creative cooking has ensured a regular following with his favorite ingredients of porcini mushrooms, red prawn, tomatoes, fresh herbs, and truffles showcased in his menu.
Parma Ham and Melon
Mixed Seafood Salad with Lemon Dressing
Tomato and Buffalo Mozzarella Caprese
Braised Chicken Cacciatore
Garoupa with Olive-Tomato Sauce
For more information, follow them in Facebook at facebook.com/MarcoPoloOrtigasManila or @MarcoPoloManila on Twitter or Instagram.
ITALIAN POP CUISINE
One of the attractions of Italian cuisine has to be its appeal to different generations and its adaptability around the world. We can see evidence of this with the Japanese Wafu Pasta with Yuzukosho Sauce, Chicago’s deep-dish pizza to our local Filipino-style spaghetti.
One of Italy’s acclaimed contemporary chefs was in Manila last January, to share his world of flavor. Michelin Chef Davide Oldani recently opened his first concept restaurant outside Milan, FOO’D by Davide Oldani at Shangri-La The Fort, BGC.
Chef Oldani opened his first restaurant, D’O, in 2003, a stone’s throw away from where he grew up in Comaredo, near Milan. It became an instant hit and a well-loved gustatory destination thanks to its intimate ambience and award-winning dishes. Just a mere year after opening the restaurant, he received the Michelin Star Recognition and was deemed one of the greatest chefs of contemporary Italian cuisine. In addition, his version of the risotto Milanese was recognized as “Dish of the Year” by the Espresso Guide.
Oldani has become renowned for his innovative approach to Italian cuisine through his distinct Cucina Pop style, which masterfully weaves together incredible flavors into simple but surprising dishes. Cucina Pop follows a humble philosophy that all aspects of the meal —and not merely the food that is prepared—should be executed to a level of excellence. Everything is considered down to the finest detail, from the types of table, glassware and utensils. Each in their simplicity and elegance must help elevate the meal and create a memorable experience for the diner but at an affordable price range. Food’o by Davide Oldani offers three course menus that start at the P 1,000 price range.
For Lavazza, the premier Italian coffeemaker, Oldani designed the espoon and ecup, which were true innovative pieces that aimed to enhance the flavor of coffee. In addition, Oldani partnered with Kartell, another renowned Italian design company, to fashion his first line of tables that redefined form and function.
“My Cucina Pop comes from the desire to blend the essential with the well-made, to create something good that is accessible, to combine tradition with innovation. I am convinced that the greatness of Italian cuisine lies not only in the variety and flavors, but also in its openness to continuous re-interpretation,” shared Chef Oldani, who has also lent his delft touch to designing his own line of utensils and dishes.
But beyond designing, Oldani has also inspired an entire generation. “Cucina Pop was born to feed people. If someone says I’m an artist, that is poetry, it’s fine. But basically, as a cook you have to feed people. Cucina Pop was born from my personality to accommodate people in my restaurant. I adapted myself to the time, to the territory, to the guests, to my staff. And the total was called Pop Cuisine,” Oldani shared in his video Cucina POP for the Bologna Business School.
Chef Davide Oldani
“Here at FOO’D by Davide Oldani we combine the highest quality (of ingredients) with an affordable price for the Manila market,” Chef Oldani affirmed.
He echoes the importance of seasonal products. “They are excellent, genuine, and affordable. My profession is to be an artisan. We can say out loud that Italy is a country of culture, good food and good people.”
Cipolla Caramellata with caramelized onions, 24-months aged Grana Padana gelato with Grana Padana hot cream provides contrasting flavors, textures and temperatures.
Tender Iberico Pork Rib with porcini sauce and a liquorice crumb
Lemon Curd with dehydrated meringue, cacao crumble, curry almond and lettuce gelato
Launched last December 2016, FOO’D by Davide Oldani is the new culinary destination brought to life by Foodee Global Concepts, the same authority that introduced Food Hall by Todd English, Pound by Todd English, Hook by Todd English, Tim Ho Wan, MESA Filipino Moderne, and Sunnies Café.
For more information, follow on Facebook FOO’D by Davide Oldani, and on Instagram @ FOODbyDO_PH.
THE FOOD ACT
Chef Davide Oldani is also one of the Italian chefs supporting The Food Act, a pact between institutions and the world of good quality food represented by the some of the most important Italian chefs. Signed in the summer of 2015, the pact is a project which commits the Italian government to protect Italian chefs and their produce. One of the activities resulting from this was the International Week of Italian Cuisine held last November, a global event that simultaneously celebrated Italy’s quality produce through cooking shows, exhibitions, tastings and meetings.
The intent is to promote the Made in Italy brand, Italian food traditions, and gastronomic itineraries in a united front that crosses regional borders.
The Philippines has followed suit with different efforts of the Department of Agriculture and the Department of Foreign Affairs. Hopefully, a centralized effort can stem from these separate commitments for a stronger stance to promote Filipino cuisine.
LEARNING FROM MAESTROS
Looking back over the years, there are still a number of Italian favorites around, fanning our fervent passion for this cuisine. Cibo is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year while Shakeys has grown to be the first full service pizza chain and the number one casual dining concept in the country.
Vicente Gregorio
Shakeys President and CEO Vicente Gregorio will be one of the speakers at the upcoming RestoInvest, the Philippine Restaurant Investment Conference Year 2. This conference will gather the key stakeholders in the hospitality industry and share insights on the state of the different foodservice categories from fast food, fast casual, casual dining, fine dining, commissaries, hotel-based restaurants and more. This year’s theme will tackle “Business-Building Strategies for Sustainable Growth.”
For more information, call 0917-639-8089 and 0917-620-8418, or email courageasia.pm@gmail.com.