“From a botanical point of view, the Philippines is a very rich country.” Chef Juan Carlos de Terry revealed during the recent Madrid Fusión Manila (MFM), as he extolled about the abundant produce our country has to offer.
This would undoubtedly include fruits, like coconut, bananas, mangoes, pineapple, papaya, and calamansi—the more familiar tropical crops we are known for. Beyond the production and harvest cycle, there is a lot of intervention primarily from the Department of Agriculture (DA) to create demand such that farmers will continue to plant.
This includes compliance to international standards, explained DA Undersecretary for Special Concerns Berna Romulo Puyat. “We are now implementing programs to improve the quality of the Filipino food industry, focusing on food safety and the importance of hygienic practices (i.e. Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point (HACCP); Good Agricultural Practices (GAP); Good Manufacturing Program (GMP); Chemicals Residue Program; Alignment of PHILGAP with International Standard; Alignment of Philippine Halal Certification with that of Malaysia or JAKIM, an internationally-recognized halal certification system).”
With the ASEAN Economic Community set as the goal for regional integration this year, such measures are needed to ensure our place in global marketplace.
Fruits in Season
An interesting program the Australian Trade Commission (Austrade) implemented last month was “Now in Season 2015.” This was already introduced last year when Austrade launched their Citrus Australia products and is currently showcasing apples, pears, table grapes, and summer stonefruits jointly with Malaysia and Thailand.
Austrade Senior Trade Commissioner Anthony Weymouth explained why it was important to profile fruits in season for the markets and to raise awareness of fresh produce availability and the unique varietals coming from Australia. “When the protocols were changed two years ago as a result of the ASEAN, Australia, New Zealand Free Trade Agreement, we have seen more fresh Australian fruit coming into the market.” This results in more choices for Filipinos from produce that hails from “pristine quality growing environment, that is very important for fruit production and ensures Filipinos get the best quality product.” Another differentiator is Australia’s close proximity, which enables lower freight costs and better access to the markets. The winner is naturally the consumer, with more fresh fruit selections.
The collaboration enabled visits from representatives of Summerfruit Australia (SAL), Australian Table Grapes Association (ATGA), and Apples and Pears Australia (APAL). Some highlights of our conversation focused on the importance of product differentiation and consumer education.
“SAL is the representative body for summer stonefruit growers, which comprises about 800 growers all over Australia. About 77% is from Victoria, along the Murray River and the largest producing area in Australia for peaches, apricots, nectarines, and plums. Australia’s warm climate and fast, dry summers promote sweeter, juicier summer stonefruit.” Strict quality parameters are in place dictating tolerance levels for the fruit’s shape, color, and blemishes. Even packers have guidelines for fruit tolerance with regards to its packaging.
While the Philippines is relatively new market for stonefruits, Moore is looking forward to educating the consumers on how to handle it and with better protocols and efficient transportation in place, we can look forward to more stonefruits by November. Moore also shared a handy tip to determine ripeness: “Squeeze gently. Don’t poke. It should feel tender when ripe.”
APAL Market Development Manager Olivia Tait
“The outtake is that education is required for our new products in the market. We have a real role to play here and this is what we can bring to the market. Apples are very familiar but the challenge is that it is very much dominated by supply of American apples.” Tait mentioned that their strength is to differentiate their products from the rest. There is the Cripps Pink, also known as Pink Lady™, which is an apple pioneered in Australia and famous for its color, crunch, ‘fizz’, and sweet taste. They similarly have pears that can offer a range of choices for the F&B sector from Williams’ Bon Chrétien, Peckham’s Triumph to Beurré Bosc. “We have to be clever about what we bring to the market and that it meets the criteria of being sweet, crisp, and crunchy.”
Australia’s fruit industry is renowned for its world-class safety standards, including its innovative traceability system. “This means that each batch of fruit can be tracked from the farm, to the packing house, and then on the ship during its voyage to the Philippines,” Austrade Senior Trade Commissioner Weymouth explained
“We are the representative body for 900 table grape growers. Warm dry days and cool nights bring out the fruitfulness and the flavors of all our varieties. We are fortunate to be very sought after by other countries,” he shares. They currently export more than 20 varieties to 52 countries, with more than a hundred containers sent to the Philippines. Scott is confident they can double their current harvest with the same attention to quality.
Australian table grapes are all picked manually, with less handling for better quality. “The white film you see covering the skin is the natural bloom of the grape, which means it has not been touched from the time of harvest,” Scott explained. “Grapes don’t ripen anymore once picked. Stored properly, it can last up to four or five months,” he adds.
Creative Juices
One fresh insight I had from MFM a few weeks ago was with Chef Andre Chiang of Restaurant Andre in Singapore. It was a rich exploration of how juices can add another layer to the meal, apart from the usual wine or spirit pairing. Chef Andre explains, “In the restaurant, we talk so much about technique, finding unique produce, and how to create the ultimate dining experience. Obviously, we have one area we never touched on and this is what can juices do?”
It was a salute to the tradition of fermentation while radically combining new ideas and flavors on classic beverages. Chef Andre showcased some of his juice combinations such as tamarillo, basil, and dry chili or cardamom and koji. “Before, the juice is difficult to pair with a meal because of the sugar. But with this natural transformation into something intense, the juice can be something bitter, lactic, acidic, or even smoky. It can be a support, that highlights the produce like a shadow,” he says.
As a follower of beverage ideas and trends in the market, I congratulated Chef Andre after his presentation on how his fermented juices created another layer in the dining experience. As he explained, the juice can create a contrast to balance off the produce and the dish. “Sometimes, the components on the plate cannot create any surprise. But if it is a glass of juice, it creates a before and after experience with an accuracy that wine cannot do,” adds Chef Andre
He ended with a nod towards his roots: “This is the purest way to appreciate the complexity of nature. It is chasing the ultimate technique, the ultimate presentation but without forgetting the knowledge of our history. Fermentation is very close to my heart and every continent has their own way of fermenting products. The challenge is how to take that to the present and future in the purest way without adding anything extra.”
Pine Needles and Charcoal Granny Smith Apples
“Creative fermented juice never interferes with the dish, but enhances the flavor,” Chef Andre shared. This combination of fermented Granny Smith apples, with toasted pine needles and charcoal creates a natural acidity as the oil from the pine needles comes out. The smoky hints from the charcoal only appear at the finish.
Tamarillo Basil Dry Chili
Dark Malt, Corn, and Vanilla
“Creative fermented juice can be as complex as a dish. The difference is that it takes months to prepare,” Chef Andre finished. As an example, he cited the juice of dark malt combined with toasted corn and vanilla that could be paired with a robust beef stew.
Fruit Forward
There are a thousand possibilities that we can experience with fruits, if we dare to take it to another level or simply enjoy its fresh and pure quality. The question is how we can create a relevant and engaging experience with consumers so they can partake of this natural bounty. Definitely something to look forward to…
Photos by Marilen Fontanilla, Summerfruit Australia, and Madrid Fusion Manila