There’s a new fine dining restaurant at the yet-to-open Crown Tower at the City of Dreams. The interiors are traditional and understated but the menu is very much happening.
The chef is William Mahi, a French chef from the Basque region (Basque Country as those who call for its independence say). This means that he grew up in that area near San Sebastian so he has the influences of both Spanish and French flavours. Yet his menu is all his own, with creations that will make you close your eyes in delight.
The amuse bouche sets the tone of creative awesomeness for the evening. Take this goat cheese coated with caramelized pork. It looks like candy but who would ever have thought that pork would be an ingredient in it? The crackling sweetness of caramelized pork against the creamy, salty goat cheese is brilliant. This is followed by a foie gras lollipop coated in chocolate with apple puree. Imagine that—a pop of creamy foie, but instead of having it plain, it is covered in a chocolate ball. Finally, as a sort of palate cleanser, a limoncello jelly that is a burst of light sourness.
The concept is interesting in that they offer a 5-course, 6-, 7-, or 8-course menu starting at P3,200. Then they have an extensive wine list to go with this (to be paid for separately). But the menu is not set. You can choose among the dishes to create your own degustation.
At a dinner with friends last weekend, we started with the 52-degree Egg. I strongly recommend that you start with this too. It is a burst of umami, being generously topped with shaved winter truffles from Perigord, and underneath, little slices of Iberico. They bring you the cream then the egg yolk is placed as the crowning glory of the piece right before your eyes. It is heavenly.
This is quite hard to top. So we tried a sure winner for the next dish: Duck liver Terrine. You might think, from reading the menu, that this is just terrine. But it’s not. It comes rolled in a spiced red wine jelly and looks like a Tootsie Roll (for those who remember what a Tootsie Roll is). To balance the strong flavors of the duck terrine, the chef designs the plate with port wine reduction and strawberry sauce.
After that beautiful introduction to the flavors of William Mahi, we moved on to mains, starting with Norwegian Salmon. But mind you, this isn’t your ordinary salmon with capers on a plate. It is served very creatively in a lovely roll and matched with Parisian sauce made from fish stock and a selection of green herbs. Most interesting of all, as your guide (look for Gigi) will explain, is the Oyster Leaf. Have a bite of this first—a leaf!—and be amazed at how this little, little leaf can bring you to the seaside as it tastes just like an oyster (minus the texture). It’s brilliant!
We also had a pan-fried calamari for our fourth course—a brilliant mix and match of seafood delights. But this was outstaged by the Pork Belly, which is oh-so-soft. That thin flat layer on top is a crispy trotter (the hoof!) and it tastes like a flattened chicharon. Sooo good.
You will not have room for dessert. I tell you. Make sure to order wine so you can sit for hours and allow the food to go down. You should start dinner at 6 and end at midnight for proper pacing. Request the kitchen to take it sloooow.
But do order the Mille Feuille as it is uniquely presented. The filo pastry is flattened and the pastry cream is infused with rum. (For those who don’t like the taste of alcohol in their dessert, go for the chocolate dessert instead).
And after all that, say chesse.
This restaurant, I dare say, is the next big thing. If Chef William Mahi keeps this up, I wouldn’t be surprised if his name would be included in the 2016 list of Asia’s Best Restaurants.
Photos by Margaux Salcedo